Part IV - Bangladesh

Rising Tide: Sinking Earth

Global warming is creating havoc throughout the world.

Our oceans are warming and expanding causing an increase in hurricanes, tsunamis, tornados, flooding, and soil erosion.

This project, Rising Tide: Sinking Earth, focuses on locations throughout the world that are experiencing the effects of coastal soil erosion due to climate change.


Bangladesh is one of the most vulnerable countries to face the challenges of rising tide. With a population of one hundred and sixty-eight million people, it is the world’s eighth most populous country and the most densely populated, excluding small island nations and city-states. It is covered by the Bengal delta - the largest delta on Earth. Its 700 rivers and 8,046 km of inland waterways traverse this low-lying country.

Two-thirds of its terrain is less than five meters above sea level. It is estimated that by 2050, a three-foot rise in sea levels will inundate some 20% of the land and displace more than 30 million people.

Bangladesh Rivers

Bangladesh Rivers

Monsoons, cyclones, tornados and flooding are frequent occurrences in this part of the world. Combined with the effects of deforestation, soil degradation and erosion, natural disasters regularly inflict heavy damage on its inhabitants.

In September 1998, Bangladesh saw the most severe flooding in modern world history. As the Brahmaputra, the Ganges and Meghna spilled over and swallowed 300,000 houses, 9,700 km (6,000 mi) of road and 2,700 km (1,700 mi) of embankment. 1,000 people were killed and 30 million more became homeless. Two-thirds of the country was underwater.

As climate changes, these natural disasters will increase in frequency and in magnitude.

In 1993, it was discovered that much of Bangladesh's groundwater (the source of drinking water for 97% of the rural population and a significant share of the urban population) is naturally contaminated with arsenic. External donors constructed hand pumps in 2004 to provide water to many in the rural areas.

Bangladesh acknowledges the threats that they are facing and are being proactive in lessening the damage by instating preventative measures.
Since 1991, cyclone centers have been built throughout Bangladesh, decreasing the amount of deaths that would have occurred without them. Only 30 deaths resulted from the devastating Cyclone Roanu in 2016; most were accidental.
The government has also created an extensive dike system that controls water flow in order to divert the flooded rivers.

Bangladesh ranks fifth worldwide in the number of renewable energy green jobs and production of solar panels, providing energy to those that do not have access to electricity.

 

APRIL 1-2: SHERPUR DISTRICT

We travelled four hours north of Dhaka to the Sherpur district where we planned to observe one of several Bloomberg Philanthropies-funded day care centers throughout Bangladesh.

The day care centers are part of the Drowning Prevention Program organized by Synergos and Cresh, and are supported by a growing coalition of organizations, businesses, government actors, and community groups.

Drowning is the leading cause of death for children under five in Bangladesh, killing 40 children every day. Over 12,000 children drowned in 2005, and in 2016, the drowning child death toll was 10,000.

Because of constant flooding, most of Bangladesh’s villages have been forced to build elevated dirt roads for travel. The soil adjacent to the road is used to create new roads, thereby creating ditches.

With rain and flooding, these ditches become full of water and become a potential hazard to young children playing near their homes. Most child drowning deaths occur in small bodies of water within 20 meters of the home.

Sherpur District

Sherpur District

The day care centers are located within 10 minutes walk of the home providing a safe haven for these children. Unfortunately, only 7 out of 460 sub districts have these day care centers.

We interviewed two residents in Teghuria Village and observed the Anchal Ma day care center.


Mujdul Miya
Teghuria Village, Sherpur District

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Mujdul lives with his wife, Najua Begum; father, Tofis Uddin; mother, Mohowana Begum; and his three childen Jonaki, Mumia and Lamia. Jonaki is now in BRAC school after graduating the Anchal Ma day care. Mumia attends Anchal Ma, and Lucia is three months old.
Mujdul’s entire extended family is dependent on his income for survival. He has made amodest living by farming fish in the many ponds surrounding his home. Because of climate change, winters are no longer as cold and summers are warmer. This shift in temperature has affected his livelihood. 

The rain in Bangladesh normally begins in late April; this year there were seven days of straight rain in March causing all of his fish to die.

Dead fish in pond, Sherpur, Bangladesh

Dead fish in pond, Sherpur, Bangladesh

Mujdul arranged for us to view one of his ponds and to watch the fish being dredged out of the pond. Unfortunately all of the nets were devoid of fish. Several dead fish were floating on top of the pond.

Luckily, he is quite resourceful and has started a business of collecting hair that is cleaned, bundled and sent to China for wigs.

Afzal Hossain

Afzal Hossain

Afzal Hossain
Teghuria Village, Sherpur District 

Afzal lives with his wife, children and extended family. The youngest of his three children, Nowshad - who was only 15 months old, had drowned just ten days earlier.

He explains:
“That day my wife went to a neighbor’s place to borrow a machete while my son was playing in front of our house. When she came back, son was not here. So, she was searching everywhere and suddenly looked into water where my son was floating. 

She pulled out our son and put his belly on her head so the swallowed water can come out. There was no sign of life. Then she moved to the hospital with the help of neighbors. But everybody was saying to move her back to home as our son was dead already. 

I was working in town. That morning my son fed me with his tiny hands and then I went to work. I had come to know about my son through mobile at 3pm. I rushed back home and he already died.”

Afzal’s older daughter graduated from the Anchal Ma day care center. He and his wife intended to send Nowshad to day care the next month.

Ditch near to Afzal’s home.

Ditch near to Afzal’s home.

Anchal Ma Day Care Center
Teghuria Village , Sherpur District

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

The day care center provides not only a safe place for the children to play while their parents work during the day, but also teaches them reading, math and other subjects.
Monsheda is one of two volunteer caregivers who manage the program. While there, the eleven children recited what they have been learning in school.

Most of the children nearby do not want to leave their homes and many parents do not think it is necessary to part with their child for three hours, especially because there is usually an extended family member at home. It is much easier to keep the children at home rather than walk ten minutes back and forth to the center.
It is hoped that Synergos can convince the parents to send their children to the day care centers to not only prevent drowning, but to educate at an early age.
Despite mandatory education through the fifth grade, many low-income families keep their children home to work. They also live too far from an educational institution to attend. UNICEF along with many other non-profits are working to increase the accessibility of education throughout Bangladesh.

 

April 3-4: KHULNA DISTRICT

Khulna District

Khulna District

Khulna is 278 miles south of Dhaka and the third largest city in Bangladesh.
We flew to the closest airport, Jessore, and immediately drove to Khulna where we resided for the next two nights. While driving through the countryside to Dacope, we encountered a jute factory strike.  

Our detour led us through a small village where the council leader happily greeted us; she insisted we come to her home for tea.

We regretfully declined, but still she brought us some sweet bananas - a welcome afternoon snack. The street was lined withdozens of people wanting to talk and look at us.

The council leader and the people of her village

The council leader and the people of her village

Ghunte (dried cow dung on a stick used for lighting fires) was neatly arranged against brightly painted homes.

Ghunte (dried cow dung)

Ghunte (dried cow dung)

Everywhere we went, we felt welcome.  The Bangladeshi are some of the nicest people in the world… honest, kind, caring, giving. Their beautiful sprit was everywhere.

When we returned to the road, we were offered a cup of tea or coffee and sat with the locals until the strike was over. A few of the strikers talked and took selfies with us.

We reached Dacope and interviewed Abdulla Sarder.

While waiting, a truck drove by filled with drums of live fish.

While waiting, a truck drove by filled with drums of live fish.

ABDULLA SARDER, DACOPE, KHULNA DISTRICT

Abdulla lives with seven members of his family: his wife, mother and father, two brothers, and two children, His daughter Mohanna aspires to be a doctor, and his son Masum Billa has hearing issues which cannot be resolved in Dacope. Treatment is available in Dhaka but because they do not have the resources, Masum’s hearing cannot be cured.

Abdulla’s family once lived in Kalabogi. His father had a successful fishing business and owned quite a bit of property including three homes. After the properties were destroyed from flooding, Abdulla built two more homes. More flooding occurred and these newly built homes were washed away.

Without property, Abdulla had no choice but to leave his beloved Kalabogi and live in government housing in Dacope. Dreams of going back to Kalabogi are in the past. There is no fishing, no farms and no water.

The only work available to Abdulla is as a day laborer. He hopes to get a job each day laying bricks and wakes each day not knowing whether or not he will have enough wages to feed his family. 

Abdulla depends on “The All Mighty” to get him through.

Abdulla’s village

Abdulla’s village

 

On the way home from Dacope we stopped at the night market where we walked among stalls of fresh fruits, vegetables, live fish, meat, and rugs.

A rising middle class (estimated at over 30 million) has fueled demand for high quality agriculture products. According to the Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics (BBS), in 2014-15, crops, livestock, fisheries, and forest products accounted for about 16 percent of Bangladesh’s total gross national product.

Agriculture employs approximately 47 percent of the total population. The food in Bangladesh is very fresh and delicious - great curries, rice dishes with various meats and fresh palm juice, not at all what we expected. Although the food is satisfying, Sherpur does not offer an abundance of fine dining. We ate at the same “reliable” restaurant for all of our meals.

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Night market in Khulna

Night market in Khulna

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The next morning, we woke early for our 4-hour trip to Kalabogi. Traveling to Kalabogi required an hour drive to the ferry, which would take us across the river. On the way we picked up Ajgor Houssain Sabbir and continued for another two and a half hour boat ride through the Dhaka River and around the bend through the Shibsha River.

We watched the day-to-day activities that the river provided. The largest industry was scouring the river with large blue nets to capture fingerling shrimp. While the parents were working, several children cooled themselves in the murky water. Signs of river erosion scarred the shoreline, trees with exposed roots hung over the embankments and homes were precariously close to the shore.

On the river to Kalabogi

On the river to Kalabogi

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Kalabogi Village

Kalabogi

Kalabogi

Kalabogi lies on the northern border of the Sundarbans. The village houses climate refugees living in two rows of government platform dwellings which are mostly powered by solar panels.

Their original homes disappeared into the river and what was once a viable village with crops and fresh fish is now only a memory.


Moriam Begum and Hakim Sheak
Kalabogi Village

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Moriam (65) and Hakim (50) live with six members of their extended family; Moriam’s mother, approximately 100 years, their three children, their son-in law, Shapia and their granddaughter in a platform dwelling.

Hakim and Moriam At Work, Kalabogi

Hakim and Moriam At Work, Kalabogi

We watched Moriam Begum troll her net back and forth to capture tiny (1cm) fingerling shrimp. She trolls for hours in hopes that she will catch 100. Her husband, Hakim Sheak waits by the shore with a bucket where he scoops up these tiny shrimp with a white shell, inspecting each one. 
As he counts each shrimp, he places them into a separate bucket to be sold to the shrimp farmer. 100 fingerling shrimp will earn 70 taka (approximately 75 cents).

This is the only source of income for the family unless Hakim is fortunate enough to get a job as a day laborer.

Hakim counts the fingerling shrimp

Hakim counts the fingerling shrimp

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Because fresh water is not available in Kalabogi, water needs to be purchased daily; one taka will purchase only one liter of water. Days go by where there is only enough food for one meal. Other days Hakim needs to borrow money from a neighbor to feed his family.
The closest medical facility is 30 km away and requires crossing many waterways. If someone is critically ill, it is almost impossible to get treatment.   

Moriam and Hakim see no future in Kalabogi.

 

As we prepare to leave Kalabogi, the villagers surround us in glee, excited that foreigners have come to visit.
Music played in one of the dwellings, inspiring two of the girls to dance.

I was sad to leave these upbeat climate refugees. Would the next cyclone wipe out this village? Where would these people go next? 

We waved goodbye and embarked on our boat back to Khulna. 

Waving Goodbye, Kalabogi

Waving Goodbye, Kalabogi

 

On the boat, we interviewed Aigor Houssain Sabbir.

Ajgor Houssain Sabbir

Ajgor Houssain Sabbir

Ajgor is now a journalist but was once a Kalabogi refugee.

The first major cyclone of 1988 caused the river embankment in Kalabogi to collapse, flooding the area for the next two years. At that time the government did not have the resources to repair the damage. After the following two cyclones of 2007 and 2009, most of the village became submerged.

When Aigor was promoted to 6th grade, the school was 4 km away and walking during rainy season was difficult. Because his father was a local representative and quite solvent, he sent him to Dhaka to live with relatives to continue his education. 

His original school is now in the middle of the river.

He states, “if I tell my children, they wont believe that Kalabogi once had fresh gardens, ponds, and cattle.”


April 5-6: Cox’s Bazaar

Sunset at Cox’s Bazaar

Sunset at Cox’s Bazaar

Cox’s Bazaar is a bustling seaside resort with the third longest beach in the world. Tenafly Marine Drive, a 100km road running along the beach, took 12 years to construct.

We rushed to make this drive before 7PM when high tide would force the road closed. Capturing this beautiful shoreline with the drone, I realized that there was absolutely no litter on the beach. If ocean debris had washed ashore it was now being recycled. 


Kutubdia Island
Cox’s Bazaar District

Kutubdia, Bangladesh

Kutubdia, Bangladesh

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Kutubdia is one of the oldest villages in Bangladesh. 
During the past 20 years, 40,000 people have fled Kutubdia. What was once an island of 215 square km has now eroded to half of that, with a total population of 14,000. The only people that remain are those that cannot afford to move and are refugees in their own land.

Kutubdia is noted for increasingly rapid soil erosion and is one of the areas in the world that has the fastest recorded sea level rise.
Land that used to be filled with greenery, trees, vegetables, and rice paddy fields have been destroyed by flooding and replaced by salt fields.

The residents of Kutubdia have been affected by constant cyclones and are one cyclone away from being wiped out. Although there are fewer deaths because of a newly constructed cyclone center, the land is suffering.
Homes that were once brick and wood are now only temporary shacks that can be moved when another flood occurs. The salinization of water has forced these residents to buy their crops and rice from the mainland.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

The main trade in Kutubdia is salt cultivation, used to dry fish. The salt is extracted from the sea by using evaporation techniques in small ponds.

Now, the long rainy season makes it difficult to dry fish. Fishermen have had to become day laborers to support their families.

Two out of three families have no electricity. Inefficient kerosene lamps are prevalent, which provide light but create smoke - causing eye and respiratory tract diseases. Work and studying are extremely difficult tasks after dark.
A diesel-powered generator provides some electricity between the hours of 5:30-10:30PM. There is a new wind-powered station, which can provide electricity for six hours per day to a small percentage of residents.
By participating in this program they have the option of selling excess electricity.
Drums are used to store rainwater - which can last less than a month before it is depleted.

 

Shamsunnahar, Kutubdia Island 

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Shamsunnahar lived in Khudiyartek, but left after the cyclone of 1991 to live in Kutubdia.

She explains: “the cyclone had eroded our land, houses and cattle. Even though there is a dam, the water destroys it easily and our homes become flooded. Each year we need to rebuild our homes, which are only made of soil. The cyclone center is saving lives but not everyone can make it to the center during the cyclone.” 

During the rainy season Shamsunnahar collects drinking water from the tube well with a long pipe. There is no other place to go, so survival is the only option.

Although it is a hard life, Shamsunnahar prefers hardship rather than dying at sea.

 

Zafar Alam, Kutubdia Island

Zafar Alam

Zafar Alam

Zafar is 57 years old. Like Shamsunnahar, he also lived in the village of Khudiyartek. He lived there until 1991 when the devastating cyclone destroyed his home and village.

Twenty to thirty thousand people were displaced and moved to Cox’s Bazaar, Teknaf, Dulahazra, Borkup and Kutubdia.

Zafar once farmed and cultivated salt.

He points to a spot far off into the water where his home, a forest and crops used to exist. He tells us that the rainy season destroys the embankment every year and houses flood.

Year after year homes are rebuilt. Last year a dam was built to protect the residents, but the dam will collapse causing waves to rise over the houses once again.

Zafar pointing to where his home used to be.

Zafar pointing to where his home used to be.

 
Fazol Haque

Fazol Haque

Fazol Haque, COAST

We speak with Fazol Haque who works for COAST - an aid organization that focuses on assisting those whose lives have been hit by climate change. They provide financial help and work with the Bangladeshi government to do more about educating the people in surviving the perils of climate change.

We spend one more night in Cox’s Bazaar before flying back to Dhaka the next morning.


April 7-9: Dhaka 

Back in Dhaka, we interview Ainun Nishat.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Ainun is an advisor for The Centre for Climate Change and Environmental Research at BRAC University, as well as a world-renowned climate expert.
He has been working with the government combatting and adapting to the impact of climate change on his country. He states: “climate change is still in infancy”.

One major problem facing Bangladesh is the change in weather patterns due to climate change. Bangladesh is very dependent on farming to feed the Bangladeshi and for export, which creates income for the country. Changing weather has had dire effects on the distinct seasons that crops need to survive. Spring and Autumn were important parts of the weather cycle; now, Spring has almost vanished and Autumn is later each year.
Weather patterns are occurring four weeks earlier than they have in past years. The monsoon is arriving earlier and affecting the growth pattern and types of crops that can be grown in Bangladesh. It can rain 100mm in two hours and 300mm per day.
The heavy rainfall has caused landslides in Chittagong where many have died. 

The monsoon season once experienced 400-500mm of rainfall. This has been reduced to 300mm. While late monsoon season used to record 50mm of water, it now recorded as 300 to 400mm. Heavy rain can ensue for seven days in a row and cease for the following two weeks.

The rise in global temperature, the increase in rainfall, and the rising tide are working together to create an excess of salinated water in coastal areas, creating negative effects on agriculture. What was once an area that grew rice is now a salt cultivation field.

Ainun explains, “Bangladesh is nature’s laboratory of natural disasters.”
Flooding is becoming more frequent. Bangladesh experiences four different types of flooding; flash flooding from rainfall, rising sea level, internal flooding where pumps are needed to extract excess water from the ground, and river flooding.

There are also areas in Bangladesh that face drought. Western and Central Bangladesh have been forced to switch crops from rice to mangoes, which require less water.
Cyclones are a regular occurrence in Bangladesh. Five thousand cyclone centers have been built throughout the country, but 10,000 more are needed.

An extensive dike system has been developed to combat the increase in water throughout Bangladesh. The dikes are five meters high, but in 2009 and 2017 the water rose to eight meters thus flooding huge areas. Bangladesh is now increasing the height of these dikes to 6.5 meters.
The country is working to curb carbon emissions by banning cars that are more than five years old and investing in renewable energy.

The changing of weather has caused lightning to become more frequent in the north. Many have died.

An increase in fog is yet another issue that the country of Bangladesh is facing. Airports close between the hours of 4 and 10PM in the month of December and ferries can be closed for several days when visibility becomes too low to travel.
The rise in temperature results in the rise of many diseases. Dengue fever in Bangladesh did not exist before 2003 and the Nipah virus only appeared in 2016.

Ainun summarizes, “Bangladesh is the most vulnerable country due to climate change.”

 

SUNDARBANS

Fascinated by the Sundarbans, I rented a helicopter to experience the largest fresh water mangrove forest in the world.

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Sundurbans, Bangladesh

Sundurbans, Bangladesh

The Sundarbans house the world’s most complex river delta, about the size of Connecticut. The three main rivers, the Ganges, the Brahmaputra, and the Meghna end up in the mangrove forest of the Sundarbans. 

Fed by Himalayan snowmelt and monsoon runoff, carrying one billion tons of Asian landmass suspended as sediment, it is recorded among the richest terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems that exist. 
As sea level rises, fresh water flows from the rivers and mixes with the salty tides from the sea drifting inland. The increase in salinity is killing many of the mangroves and saline-adapted species are replacing these trees.
The Bengal tiger and other local animals depend on fresh water and cannot live with the increase in salinity. These tigers are near extinction with only 100 left. Due to increased salinity, there has been an increase of shark and whale sightings in the Sundarbans.

Rising sea levels of 0.5 meters by 2050 will cause 2251 square kilometers of land or 42% of the Sundarbans to sink. 2.5 million people in major coastal districts will be inundated.

A World Bank study found that higher surface temperature of the Indian Ocean increases the frequency and strength of the cyclones. Cyclone Roanu destroyed 125,000 homes through Sri Lanka, India and Bangladesh in May 2016.


DHAKA SLUM

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Dhaka Slum, Bangladesh

Dhaka Slum, Bangladesh

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We decide to visit the local slum area of Dhaka to witness conditions of the poorest in the city.

The Dhaka slum is a vibrant community of small shacks, communal kitchen and dining, and a town that supports their needs. Barbershops, cellular stores, vegetables stands, bike shops, etc. are all available within this slum. Most work in the garment factories where conditions are difficult.

Before visiting Bangladesh, I thought that these were the poorest and most disenfranchised people - instead, I realized that the residents of this slum were much richer than many others in Bangladesh. They had jobs that paid a wage, which is the hope of many climate refugees.


Bangladesh is responsible for only 0.3% of the world’s greenhouse gasses, but is greatly suffering the effects of increase in CO2 emissions caused by other countries. With the help of more developed countries under the Paris agreement, they are hoping for funding, bringing them from one of the poorest countries in the world to middle income by 2071 - the nation’s 100th birthday.

In October of 2018, The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) provided a special report on the impacts of global warming above pre-industrial levels. The goal of the Paris Climate agreement was to limit global temperature rise to 1.5 degrees C. To do this we would severely need to limit CO2 emissions over the next 12 years, halving current levels until 2030.

By continuing to emit CO2 without drastic reduction, the global temperature will increase 2 degrees by 2050 causing irreversible damage to the most vulnerable countries on Earth, including Bangladesh. ** 

For Bangladesh to survive, it is mandatory that the increase in global warming does not exceed 1.5 degrees C by 2050. If it increases further, there will be even more tragedy - displacement, starvation and death.

The stories above are only a few that exist in Bangladesh. There are many more. The world needs to take responsibility and decrease carbon emissions now before it is too late.

** https://report.ipcc.ch/sr15/pdf/sr15_spm_final.pdf

Khulna District, Bangladesh, April 3, 2019

Khulna District, Bangladesh, April 3, 2019

Kalabogi, Khulna District, Bangladesh, April 3, 2019

Kalabogi, Khulna District, Bangladesh, April 3, 2019

Kalabogi, Khulna District, Bangladesh, April 3, 2019

Kalabogi, Khulna District, Bangladesh, April 3, 2019

Kolatoli Beach, Cox’s Bazaar, Bangladesh, April 4, 2019

Kolatoli Beach, Cox’s Bazaar, Bangladesh, April 4, 2019

Kolatoli Beach, Cox’s Bazaar, Bangladesh, April 4, 2019

Kolatoli Beach, Cox’s Bazaar, Bangladesh, April 4, 2019

Kutubdia Island, Bangladesh, April 5, 2019

Kutubdia Island, Bangladesh, April 5, 2019

Diane Tuft
Part III - The Pacific Islands

Rising Tide: Sinking Earth

Global warming is creating havoc throughout the world.

Our oceans are warming and expanding causing an increase in hurricanes, tsunamis, tornados, flooding, and soil erosion.

This project, Rising Tide: Sinking Earth, focuses on locations throughout the world that are experiencing the effects of coastal soil erosion due to climate change.


The Marshall Islands and Kiribati

The Marshall Islands and Kiribati

Climate change is the largest environmental threat to the people of the Pacific Islands. For the next installment of The Rising Tide, I chose to focus on the atolls of the Marshall Islands and Kiribati, which are in imminent danger of disappearing due to rising sea levels.

Because both countries are atoll nations, very little land is available for habitation. Erosion and increased frequency of extensive flooding are recurring events and, as a result, there is an increase in soil salinity of the groundwater.

Most agricultural crops cannot grow under these conditions. The majority of food in the supermarkets are canned and imported with long shelf lives. Due to the lack of fresh fruits and vegetables, diabetes and other health problems are increasingly prevalent. Rainwater has been the only source of freshwater; therefore, drought is a major threat to the lives of the inhabitants.

ATOLL

An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef formed by hard (Hermatypic) coral that encircles a lagoon partially or completely.

The outer part of the reef facing the ocean remains a healthy marine ecosystem, while the inner part facing the lagoon begins to decay; the result of less favorable conditions for the coral. As the limestone decays, it changes the color of the lagoon from deep ocean-blue to bright teal. In time, the ocean waves break the limestone reef apart, which is then deposited as sand to form the atoll.

Atolls are only formed in tropical waters with elevations less than five meters.

Majuro Atoll

Majuro Atoll

As a result of global warming and climate change, the narrow rings that form the atolls are constantly eroding due to king tides, causing the inhabitants to be faced with continual flooding. Many have been displaced; others have rebuilt raised homes.
Stone and cement sea walls are constructed to protect their homes from erosion. In many areas the cost of cement and stone is prohibitive. In this case, sea walls are made from sand bags or tires.
The governments of both the Marshall Islands and Kiribati have been very vocal in encouraging the world to curb carbon emissions, which would help to save their countries.

The Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI) and Kiribati submitted their new climate action plans to the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) in July 2015, five months ahead of the Paris Agreement.

 

January 24-27, 2019

THE REPUBLIC OF THE MARSHALL ISLANDS

The Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI) attained independence from the United States in 1986 under a Compact of Free Association, which provides aid and defense of the islands in exchange for continued U.S. military use of the missile testing range at Kwajalein Atoll.

In 2008, the government declared a state of emergency after extreme waves and high tides caused massive flooding in the capital Majuro. In 2013 and 2014, the tides continued to devastate Majuro while the northern Marshall Islands experienced drought.

In 2013, Minister Tony deBrum proposed the Majuro Declaration for Climate Leadership and became a climate leader for the world. This declaration demanded a new commitment from the international community to stave off further climate disasters that would batter similarly vulnerable countries.

BIKINI ATOLL

Between 1946 and 1958, the United States tested 67 nuclear weapons on Bikini and Kwajalein Atolls. The fallout extended throughout the Marshall Islands. The most famous test, called “Castle Bravo”, was dropped on Bikini Atoll in 1954 and was 1,000 times more powerful than the bomb dropped on Hiroshima. The purpose of this testing was to determine the effects of radiation on plant and animal life and how our naval vessels could tolerate radiation if the US were involved in a nuclear war. In 1956, the United States Atomic Energy Commission regarded the Marshall Islands as "by far the most contaminated place in the world." All residents of Bikini and Kwajalein Atolls were evacuated.

INTERVIEW WITH BIKINI ATOLL REFUGEE, ALSON KELEN

Alson Kelen

Alson Kelen

During our journey to the Marshall Islands, one of our first interviews was with Alson Kelen, a Bikini Atoll refugee. 

Alson is the director of WAM (Waam Aelon in Majel), a canoe building facility in Majuro. Canoe transportation is an efficient, low-cost and eco-friendly way of travel in the Marshall Islands.

Waam Aelon in Majel

Waam Aelon in Majel

Alson’s family was evacuated from Bikini Atoll during the United States nuclear testing.
The US government declared Bikini Atoll free of radioactivity in 1968 and built homes for the returning residents. Alson’s family moved back to Bikini in 1974 when he was five years old. However, after four years of exposure to radiation, the US government deemed the area unsafe, and again the residents were evacuated. Both of Alson’s parents died from cancer.

In 2012 the United Nations indicated that the contamination was near irreversible, and compensation claims continue as a result of this nuclear testing.
Alson believes that the people of the Marshall Islands have suffered for many years due to no fault of their own.
First they were homeless as a result of the US nuclear testing. Now they are almost country-less because of increased carbon emissions and rising tides caused by the largest countries in the world.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 

INTERVIEW WITH JOHN SILK, MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS

Minister John Silk lives on Ebon Atoll. As a child growing up on Ebon, he remembers fruits and vegetables flourishing.
He spoke of his young grandson’s future and the future of the Marshallese and summarized: “When I was growing up, the issue of climate change was never part of the equation. The sea washing over the reef was music to us. We were connected to the ocean. Now, every time the waves pound on the reef, it scares me. It’s no longer music. It’s a threat.”

Minister Silk informed us that fighting climate change is the main priority of RMI. The country is committed to becoming carbon-neutral by 2050 and has already banned plastic bags, instituted a desalination plant, and installed solar-paneled streetlights.

Minister John Silk

Minister John Silk

Solar-paneled Streetlight - Majuro, RMI

Solar-paneled Streetlight - Majuro, RMI

Silk explains that the Marshall Islands have the second-highest registration of ships in the world and is instituting a partnership with Germany with the goal of leading the world in the creation of solar-operated ships.

On November 22, 2018, the government hosted a 24-hour Virtual Summit where representatives from 40 countries participated, including the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights, Michelle Bachelet. With the summit, they hoped to pressure world governments to act in working toward the goal of reducing carbon emissions by 2020.

The Virtual Summit itself served as another solution to reducing the carbon footprint by eliminating physical attendance.

 

JEBBA MADDISON

Jebba Maddison guided us throughout our stay in RMI.
She is part of the prominent Maddison family that has lived in the Marshall Islands for decades. We visited her home in Laura, in the northern part of Majuro, where she is testing the growth adaptability of different fruits and vegetables in salinized soil and of specific trees that will prevent coastal erosion along the shore.
Most of the conservation project happens on Bikirin Island where several college students are participating.

Jebba told us of an area nearby where there was once a local bar – this area is now ocean. She also spoke of the many coastal trees that need to be replaced because of erosion.

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LAURA, MAJURO ATOLL

Laura is one of the highest elevations on Majuro and considered the safest place to live. The homes seem substantial and in no danger of flooding. But even here, the residents have been affected by the king tides. We interviewed two of Laura’s residents.

Cay Toring

Cay Toring

CAY TORING, LAURA RESIDENT

Cay Toring is 69-years-old and lives with her husband, her older daughter, son, and one grandchild.

She explains that life is difficult combating the king tides. The tides keep coming, and she is in constant need of assistance.

LINDA LORENNIJ, LAURA RESIDENT

Linda Lorennij, her husband John and their six children have lived on their property for 10 years. Their original home had a fresh water catchment as well as banana and pandanus trees. Due to constant flooding all have disappeared.

Their new home is now precariously close to the shore. In order to protect it from another disaster, they have erected a wall using found materials.

Linda Lorennij

Linda Lorennij

Linda’s Sea Wall

Linda’s Sea Wall

Linda’s Home

Linda’s Home

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 

CORAL

The beaches in the Marshall Islands are shaped from a combination of erosion and sand.
There is no limit to the endless amount of coral that continually washes up on the beach.

Increasing sea water temperature causes what is called coral bleaching. Coral bleaching thus causes the majority of coral to die, which then washes ashore.

THE LAGOONS, MAJURO and ARNO ATOLLS

The cool blue, green and purple water of the lagoon provided relief from the intense 95-degree heat that I faced every day. Underwater scenes were created as I swam and dove into a wonderland of green grass, rocks and shells.
I collected coral and fossilized rock while walking through streams of water advancing and retreating over the pink sand.

Where the lagoon meets the ocean.

Where the lagoon meets the ocean.

Coral and fossilized rock.

Coral and fossilized rock.

Underwater scenes.

Underwater scenes.

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JANUARY 27-31, 2019
KIRIBATI

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We left the Marshall Islands and headed to Kiribati.

Kiribati consists of 21 inhabited atolls with a population of 100,000; half of this population lives on Tarawa. Two small uninhabited Kiribati islets, Tebua Tarawa and Abanuea disappeared beneath the ocean in 1999.

It is one of the most vulnerable nations affected by climate change, and is expected to be the first country in the world to lose all of its land territory due to rising sea levels.

Kiribati’s exposure to climate change is also exacerbated by Pacific Decadal Oscillation, a climate switch phenomenon that results in changes from periods of La Niña to periods of El Niño. The downward pressure of El Nino affects the level of the sea against the upward pressure of La Niña.
Kiribati is a member of the Alliance of Small Island States (AOSIS), an intergovernmental organization of low-lying coastal and small island countries, which published the first draft of the Kyoto Protocol in 1994.

Most of Kiribati’s income is accumulated from outside funding. In 2003, the Kiribati Adaption Program (KAP) began as a $5.5 million US initiative supported by the Global Environment Facility (GAF), the World Bank, the UN Development Program and the Japanese Government. These initiatives include improving water supply, coastal management, and protection of public infrastructure. Kiribati also receives income from fishing licensing.
Due to the warming waters, coral bleaching has led to the death of 80% of its coral.

Nearly all of Kiribati’s essential food is imported because of the lack of fresh water. Most i-Kiribati sustain themselves on fish and rice.
Houses are typically made from material obtained from local coconut and pandanus trees.

ABERAAM TEBITAKI and MAYOR TAOABA KAIEA

Our guides, Aberaam Tebitake (acting Principal of Kiribati Teacher’s College) and Mayor Taoaba Kaiea (current Chairman of the Kiribati Local Government Association) were invaluable in introducing us to both the local people and to members of the government.
At the end of our gracious dinner with them the first evening, we discovered that “take out” in Kiribati refers to all food left over from a meal. My leftovers were packed with their leftovers so that nothing was left on the plates. If one entertains at home, three to four times the amount of food necessary for the meal is prepared so that guests can go home with leftovers.

The first afternoon Aberaam accompanied us to the Tabon Te Keekee Eco Lodge located in Abatao.
Silhouettes of raised platform huts pierced the spectacular sunset soaked with orange, red and purple. The water glistened as young boys played in the crystal blue water while boys and girls played beach volleyball and stickball on the shore. Children dove from the bridge 20 feet above the water.

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Witnessing the pleasure that these children derived from their beloved Kiribati, I can imagine how upset they would be if they were forced to leave their homeland and move to a different country.

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Eria Maerere

Eria Maerere

PASTOR ERIA MAERERE
TEBIKENIKOORA VILLAGE, EITA

Our first interview in Kiribati was with Pastor Eria Maerere, head of the Assembly of God in Tebikenikoora Village, comprised of 300 people from 60 extended families.

Eria Maerere lives with his extended family, which includes his wife, children, mother, and aunt in one complex of raised dwellings with a communal kitchen and a water catchment for their supply of fresh water.

Upon arrival to Tebikenikoora, a choir filled the air with local hymns in the communal gathering platform.
Eria has opened a preschool in the village. He believes that education is the only way to save the people of Kiribati, and through early education, the skills that they acquire will lead to job opportunities overseas.

He talked of his youth where there was no mention of sea level rise. Today, he sees it as an omnipresent concern.

Eria’s Family

Eria’s Family

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Above: Water source in Tebikenikoora

Above: Water source in Tebikenikoora

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The people of this village do not want to relocate. They are constantly fighting the tides and employing methods for survival.
To combat this continual deluge, most of the homes in the village are raised; tires and sand bags are used as sea walls, and vegetables are grown inside recycled raised tires.

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Two days after I left Kiribati, Eria sent me photos of the flooding in the village. He also mentioned that the sand bags were not working and that and he was hoping that his village would be able to secure cement or stone sea walls.

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Above photos courtesy Eria Maerere

Above photos courtesy Eria Maerere

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 

ABAIANG ATOLL

Abaiang Atoll is located three hours by boat from Tarawa Atoll. Tebunginako Village, located on Abaiang, has become a symbol of the effects of global warming. News of the severe erosion that has occurred in Tebunginako has brought journalists throughout the world to document the devastation.

MAYOR IANETAMA KAITITAAKE

Ianetama Kaititaake has been Abaiang’s mayor for three years. He is responsible for sustaining an active community support system for inhabitants who are suffering from the effects of climate change.

The government assists with transportation, water supply, and relocation. By sharing the drastic effects of climate change in Kiribati with the world, Mayor Kaititaake hopes to receive financial support that will help Abaiang become more resilient to the perils that they face every day.

Mayor Kaititaake

Mayor Kaititaake

TEBUNGINAKO VILLAGE
ABAIANG ATOLL

The road to Tebunginako is very rough. After meeting with the Mayor to get approval to visit the village, we rented two motorbikes to ride to the village.

More than 100 families once lived in Tebunginako - now, all except three have been displaced because of flooding, severe coastal erosion and salt-water intrusion. Decayed trees line the shore. The sea inundates the terrain leaving little land for a platform dwelling.

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Dead palms have high water marks on their remains. All plant life has become extinct. Taro, a hardy vegetable that survives in salt water, has been planted 200 meters from the shore but is constantly being devastated by the king tides.

Erosion in Tebunginako began in the late 1970s. Fifteen years ago, the village was rebuilt 50 meters from the shore. Eventually, its structures were surrounded by a saltwater moat, replacing what was once a freshwater pond.

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Tingae

Tingae

TINGAE, RESIDENT OF TEBUNGINAKO VILLAGE

Tingae is 34-years-old with three children and has lived in this village for 20 years. She is a member of one of three families left living in this village. She describes the past when Tebunginako flourished with coconut, pandanus and breadfruit trees. Now, nothing grows in the brackish water.

Tingae walks every day to collect fresh water for her kitchen and for bathing. She is waiting to relocate until her extended family can provide property.
In order to support her family and their education, she sells local goods in Tarawa.

BERENETETA, RESIDENT OF TEBUNGINAKO VILLAGE

Bereneteta, 49, lives with her husband, four children and eight grandchildren. She has lived in this village since birth and remembers growing up with fertile land where fruits and vegetables were abundant.
Pointing to the 12-inch high water mark on her home left from the last flood two weeks prior, she describes how flooding can last for three days during high tide.

Bereneteta is also waiting for permission to relocate; until then, she lives with day-to-day uncertainty.

Bereneteta

Bereneteta

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 
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During our trip to and from the village, I noticed several small complexes surrounding a solar panel, used to provide electricity to each hut.

Several huts had their own solar panels. The inhabitants of Abaiang are not adding to the carbon footprint, but are suffering the consequences of large carbon-polluting nations.

 

AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY

The beauty of the lagoons in Kiribati is beyond one’s imagination. As we flew into Kiribati days before, we saw striations of blue water layered on top of royal blue, which again rested on purple water.

These colors are created because of the atoll’s vulnerability to climate change. The constant erosion of the atoll on the lagoon side creates colors that vibrate to form patterns and shapes within the lagoon.

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TARAWA LAGOON

Several abandoned ships are strewn throughout the lagoon. The cost of dismantling these ships is prohibitive, so they remain as sculptures in the peaceful water.

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The lagoon is a playground for all. We watched children dive off an abandoned ship while one young woman decided to cool herself by using a tray as a floatation device.

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PRESIDENT TANETI MAAMAU

President Taneti Maamau was elected in a landslide victory on March 11, 2016.

His predecessor, Anote Tong, became the voice of Kiribati in 2008 when he requested that Australia and New Zealand accept Kiribati citizens as permanent refugees. Tong said that the country had reached "the point of no return" and added, "to plan for the day when you no longer have a country is indeed painful, but I think we have to do that.”

Under President Anote’s leadership, the government of Kiribati purchased the 5460-acre Natoavatu Estate on the second-largest island of Fiji, Vanua Levu, at a cost of 9.3 million Australian Dollars in order to relocate all of the citizens of Kiribati. Today, the i-Kiribati remain in their homeland and the Natoavatu Estate remains undeveloped.

President Taneti Maamau

President Taneti Maamau

In 2013, Kiribati applied for their residents to be “climate change refugees” under the Convention relating to the Status of Refugees.
The New Zealand High Court rejected the claim that environmental degradation resulting from climate change or other natural disasters could create a pathway into the Refugee Convention or “protected person jurisdiction.”

President Maamau has given hope to the inhabitants of Kiribati. He feels that with the help of the world, he will be able to build an infrastructure that will combat the extreme havoc that climate change is causing in his country. He hopes that by implementing strong environmental policies, the world will look to Kiribati as a world leader in combating climate change.

 
Alexander Teabo

Alexander Teabo

ALEXANDER TEABO, MINISTER OF ENVIRONMENT

Alexander Teabo was born on Butaritari Island. As a young boy, his island was full of fresh fruits and vegetables.
He played in the sea and ran into the waves. “The sea was our friend. No one thought that one day the sea level would rise. How could the sea do this to us?”

The rising tides, the warming of the ocean, and changing ocean patterns are drastically affecting life. Flooding and coastal erosion cause daily hazards along with long periods of drought.
Just a few days before my arrival, the two southern-most islands, Tamana and Arorae, were devastated by cyclones. NATO partner patrol boats provided supplies.

Alexander believes that Kiribati will survive and will not surrender to the threat of climate change.
The government’s sustainable development goals have been submitted to the UN for review.

In order to provide income for the nation, Alexander plans to build both tourism and the fishing industry.

The Kiribati government is actively planting mangrove farms to supply mangroves throughout the coast of Kiribati. Not only do mangroves prevent coastal erosion by holding the sand, but they also absorb carbon dioxide. The government is also building desalination plants that will aid in sourcing fresh water, and an area has been cleared that will serve as a water reserve.
The government has signed contracts with various countries pledging to join the worldwide effort to clean the environment. New Zealand is helping Kiribati recycle its solid wastes, and the two countries have also signed the Waigani Convention to rid the ocean of mercury and other chemicals.

Kiribati is a poor country and seeks the help of other countries in the fight against climate change.
More funds are needed for their coastal erosion plans, renewable energy, communication, and transportation needs. The Green Climate Fund has pledged 60 million US dollars to support the country’s need for fresh water and sanitation.

 

FEBRUARY 1, 2019
RETURN to the MARSHALL ISLANDS

Because of flight schedules, we had one last day in the Marshall Islands. We conducted several interviews.

MARIE MADDISON

Marie Maddison is Jebba’s older sister and the acting director of WUTMI (Women United Together Marshall Islands).

She is the second of eleven Maddison children and has served in many capacities within the government of the Marshall Islands, including education, foreign affairs, health and social services. She joined the disaster committee after experiencing years of flooding, drought, and typhoons.

Marie as well as most Marshallese is an expert with the procedure of crossing the road when the King Tide comes in: they wait for three waves and then dash across. Pretty crazy way to live!

Marie Maddison

Marie Maddison

David Paul

David Paul

DAVID PAUL, MINISTER OF ENVIRONMENT

David Paul is tasked with transforming the Marshall Islands’ shoreline by planting indigenous trees that can withstand the tides and help prevent erosion. He is also implementing many policies to reduce the Marshallese carbon footprint and institute a policy that will compensate citizens for collecting recyclable debris.

David feels it is an epic battle to fight climate change, yet he believes the Marshallese are leading the way by being the main architects of the Paris Agreement.

David states: “it is a matter of life or death for the Marshall Islands. If the global community does not address this issue seriously, the Marshall Islands will become uninhabitable. It might start with the Marshall Islands, but will not stop.”

As the revered and deceased ex-Minister Tony deBrum of the Marshall Islands said, “the ocean is made up of drops. Each one of us is responsible for a drop of ocean. You take care of that drop; and he takes care of his drop, and she takes care of her drop – we can take care of the world.”


The Marshall Islands and Kiribati, two small island nations in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, are both bringing attention to the dire effects that climate change will cause if the world does not address the reduction of Earth’s carbon footprint.

These countries and many others are fighting for survival. They have reduced their carbon use, but many countries have not.
The Paris Agreement was instrumental in addressing this issue; it is mandatory that every country abide by this agreement in order to actively reduce carbon emissions and combat ocean rise.

Nations that output the highest levels of fossil fuels need to find solutions and provide aid to countries that are in danger of disappearing before it is too late.

Arno Atoll, Marshall Islands, January 25, 2019

Arno Atoll, Marshall Islands, January 25, 2019

Arno Atoll, Marshall Islands, January 25, 2019

Arno Atoll, Marshall Islands, January 25, 2019

Jalto Island, Marshall Islands, January 26, 2019

Jalto Island, Marshall Islands, January 26, 2019

Abatao, Kiribati, January 27, 2019

Abatao, Kiribati, January 27, 2019

Diane Tuft
Part II - Homage to the Chesapeake

Rising Tide: Sinking Earth

Global warming is creating havoc throughout the world.

Our oceans are warming and expanding causing an increase in hurricanes, tsunamis, tornados, flooding, and soil erosion.

This project, Rising Tide: Sinking Earth, focuses on locations throughout the world that are experiencing the effects of coastal soil erosion due to climate change.


Chesapeake Bay is one of the lowest-lying areas in the United States. Due to a combination of post-glacial subsidence* and rising tide, the hundreds of islands that once occupied the bay have mostly disappeared. There are only three inhabited islands left: Tangier, Smith and Hoopers.

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The Bay is rising twice as fast as the global average. The region’s relative sea level is projected to rise as much as two feet in the next 35 years and up to five feet or more by the end of the century.

Given that the elevations of these last three remaining inhabited islands are at sea level, these islands are in imminent danger of also disappearing.

The goal of my journey to Chesapeake Bay was to record the lives of these remaining inhabitants and to document the erosion that is occurring.

 

Tuesday, October 16

We began our day with Jay Falstad, the Executive Director of Queen Anne’s Conservation Association. He was joined by Wayne Gilchrest, a former US Representative to the House, now in charge of the Sassafras Environmental Education Center at Turtle Creek, Maryland. They gave us a geological history of the Chesapeake Bay as we walked along the shore of the bluffs on Bloomfield to experience this fragile landscape.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Constant pounding water strikes these bluffs causing severe erosion. Trees hang over the top of the cliffs exposing their roots and ancient sedimentary rocks from the Appalachian Mountains are strewn along the shore. As we walk, we feel as though we are walking in an ancient land.

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At 4PM, we met Tom Horton and David Harp at the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge in Cambridge. Tom is a professor of Environmental Studies at Salisbury University and an award-winning writer.

Dorchester County is the 4th largest county in Maryland. He describes growing up in the area and how drastic the changes have been since his childhood.
Tom’s documentary, High Tide in Dorchester, describes these changes.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

The Blackwater Refuge is a beautiful canvas that changes with the light of the season. The marsh has been home to the migration of monarch butterflies, egrets, ospreys, eagles and snow geese.
Tidal wetlands are necessary to provide a buffer that will blunt the impact of storm surges that cause coastal erosion. But as the ocean rises, the marshes in the Blackwater Refuge are disappearing and many of the trees have died. They have been stripped bare of their needles, branches, and brown bark, appearing as ghosts against the open sky. What was once the Blackwater River 30 years ago is now Lake Blackwater.

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Wednesday, October 17

Hoopers Island is a series of three islands in Dorchester County, located between the Honga River and Chesapeake Bay. It is one of the oldest settlements in Maryland.
Because of erosion and sea level rise, only 430 residents remain on upper Hoopers Island. It is losing 2 acres a month to coastal flooding.

Johnny Shockley, founding partner of Hoopers Island’s Oyster Aquaculture Co., is the “king” of oyster conservation. He gave us an in-depth tour of Hoopers Island and his oyster farm.

Johnny employs a full-time biologist to create oyster seeds by extracting oyster eggs and sperm, which will create embryos that will attach to microscopic fragments of oyster shells. These seeds will grow into tiny oysters by feeding on controlled algae production. The oysters grow rapidly with the consumption of algae and act as filter feeders by providing a natural solution to removing excess algae and sediment from the bays.
Johnny not only produces his signature Chesapeake Gold oysters from these seeds, he also sells these seeds to other oystermen that will farm oysters.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

At one time, oysters acted as a natural filtration system in the bays.  Due to the diminished population of natural oysters, oyster farming has become a great solution to filtering the excess algae that has infiltrated the bays. In addition to combating bay pollution, this also provides jobs, economic opportunities and a source of food that can be available throughout the world.

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We then stopped at Russell Hall Seafood (the state’s century-old, family-owned Phillips Seafood Company), a crab-processing facility that depends on migrant Mexican pickers to extract and package crabmeat from the bushels received daily. Cans of Phillips crabmeat are shipped throughout the world.

The workers come to Maryland every year during crab season, from April through October. The seafood company covers the cost of their transportation, lodging and food. They are paid a per-pound salary.

This year President Trump curtailed the amount of H-2B visas (seasonal workers) and began issuing these visas on a lottery system.
Russell Hall had no workers until June. Some of the processing centers received no pickers at all. This 11-hour per day, non-stop work is tedious and no American workers can fill the void.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 

We then headed to Hoopersville to interview Kathy Blake at her home in Fishing Creek, Hoopers Island.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Kathy lives with her husband, her five-year-old granddaughter, three dogs and a myriad of cats in a house raised on cinder blocks between a creek and a low-lying road. She wakes each day not knowing how high the water will be in her yard. Most days, she takes her granddaughter up the driveway to the school bus by canoe.

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We arrived at her home during low tide, enabling us to walk on her marshy lawn.
Kathy describes the wildlife that the tides bring to her property. Snakehead fish are a common occurrence, swimming around the perimeter of her home. Some days an occasional snake appears.
On these days, she prefers to stay inside.

Kathy Blake’s backyard.

Kathy Blake’s backyard.

Kathy’s back stoop has been crumbling due to constant flooding, necessitating her to hoist the stoop up on cinder blocks in order to access her house. We noticed a small crab by these steps - a remnant of yesterdays’ flooding.
The Fishing Creek causeway from the upper island floods at high tide most of the year. Kathy has replaced five cars in the last few years due to flooding.
Half of the remaining Hoopersville homes are for sale, but there are no buyers. Kathy would love to move but she has no resources to relocate.

Holland, Adam, Spring, and Northeast Islands - 1989

Holland, Adam, Spring, and Northeast Islands - 1989

Holland, Adam, Spring, and Northeast Islands - 2013

Holland, Adam, Spring, and Northeast Islands - 2013

James Island, 1998

James Island, 1998

James Island, 2013

James Island, 2013

After meeting with Kathy, we drove to the home of John Tall.

John works for Johnny Shockley and grew up in Fishing Creek. He showed us his home on the bay next to the historic Middle Hooper Island Cemetery. John has purchased a new home in town and hopes to sell this property.
He pointed out the many changes that had occurred in the area since he was a small boy. The trees that used to block his view on either side of his home have disappeared.  A barn that used to house his children’s toys has now blown away.

Since the 1980s, he has lost 60 feet of coastal property. During high tide, which happens several times a year, 3-4 feet of water floods his garage. He needs to keep his tractors on lifts above 5 feet so that they wont be destroyed. There are now only 50 homes in Fishing Creek and most of those are second homes. His children and most of the other descendants have moved away.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 

Thursday, October 18

We travelled this morning to interview Casey Todd at his home in Crisfield, a town of 2,726 and the self-proclaimed “crab capital of the world”.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Last house on Holland Island 2010 vs. 2018 Image courtesy David Pietroski.

Last house on Holland Island 2010 vs. 2018
Image courtesy David Pietroski.

Casey’s ancestors arrived in Holland Island in the 1600s where the new world would give them the opportunity to pursue a life on the water.
Today, Holland Island is mostly under water. The last remaining unoccupied home collapsed in 2010.

Holland Island, 1800s

Holland Island, 1800s

Holland Island, 1989

Holland Island, 1989

Holland Island, 2013

Holland Island, 2013

Casey gave us a tour of his property, which is protected from ocean rise by a bulkhead.
He is the 8th generation to live in America. His great-grandfather, Cpt. George Todd married Mary H. Price (from Long Island – which no longer exists) in 1850 and lived on Holland Island until the island became uninhabitable in 1918.

He and many others disassembled and reassembled their homes on the mainland. Both Casey and his father grew up in this reassembled home on Marilyn Ave in Crisfield, Maryland.

Even though he was recuperating from back surgery, he graciously took us to his family home on Marilyn Ave. Many of the neighboring homes on the street belonged to other family members

Holland Island home in the 1800’s

Holland Island home in the 1800’s

Holland Island home in 2018

Holland Island home in 2018

Casey opened a large leather-bound bible, a wedding gift given to his great-grandfather and great-grandmother. Displayed were pages of his family history - births, marriages and deaths dating back to 1850.

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Casey knows that his family is climate refugees and he fully expects that Crisfield will also be underwater in the next 50 years.

He believes that the government should be conscious of the fact that these coastal areas are in danger and that homes should be built in a standard today that considers the flooding that constantly occurs.


Casey then took us to MeTompkin Seafood, his seafood-processing plant, where we purchased the best fresh crabmeat.

 

At 12:30PM we boarded the Tangier Island mail boat operated by Cpt Brett Thomas. The mail boat operates once a day bringing passengers as well as needed supplies to Tangier Island.

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Upon arrival, we met Bart Jaeger, Discovery Trips Manager in the educational department of the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. He has spent his entire life on the Bay and knows Tangier Island intimately.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Tangier Island has become quite famous. The mayor, James “Ooker” Eskridge, made headlines when President Trump telephoned him. “He said we shouldn’t worry about rising sea levels,” Eskridge said. “He said that ‘your island has been there for hundreds of years, and I believe your island will be there for hundreds more.’” **

Trump received 82% of the Tangier Island vote in 2016. Evidently, the US Army Corps of Engineers is due to build a Jetty on the west side of Tangier Island at a cost of two million dollars. In 1930, 1,120 residents lived on Tangier Island. Today, the census stands at 450; 108 are past retirement, 66 out of the 210 homes that are occupied have only one person living in it, and 20% of the homes are empty. The school has only 60 students. One in five Tangiermen have died or moved away since 2000.

Swain Methodist Church

Swain Methodist Church

New Testament Church

New Testament Church

Tangiermen are deeply religious, supporting two churches - one Methodist and one non-denominational, each displaying a Star of David.

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Golf carts are the primary mode of transportation. It is necessary to park these carts on lifts in order to prevent damage from flooding.

The watermen rise at 2:00AM to collect crabs from crates that have been scattered in the surrounding water. They continue to work, taking a rest break in the afternoon, and ending their day around 8:00PM after sorting and preparing the crabs to sell to the processing plants.
These men are also proficient is catching eels, fish and oysters.
Women run the businesses, stores and restaurants.

Tangier Island has been shrinking. Since 1850 the landmass has been reduced by 67%. Today only 83 of the 740 acres of Tangier are high enough for habitation. Nine acres per year are expected to erode into Chesapeake Bay. Canaan, a community in the Uppards on Tangier Island, no longer exists. Gravestones in Canaan are submerged and artifacts from the early 1900s are found in the marsh that remains.
After a local lunch at Lorraine’s we dropped our gear off at Port Isobel and headed back to Tangier where we walked the main road lined with many of the original homes from the 1600s. We continued on Long Bridge over “Big Gut” to walk on Tangier’s white sand beach.

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We were due to meet Ooker at 2:00PM but Al Jazeera TV occupied his whole day. At 5:30PM we met him at his crab shanty.
Ooker’s boat, the Sreedevi, has become quite famous due to its hand drawn Jesus Fish and Star of David displayed on on its steering console.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

The Eskridge’s arrived in Tangier to avoid fighting during the civil war. His mother’s family, Pruitts, have been on Tangier since the 1700s.

Ooker believes that God has a plan for Tangier Island. If God wants the Island to be saved, it will be saved. For him, climate change is not an issue. He believes that coastal erosion is caused by the tides. Two years ago, the crab population was diminished due to red moss that infested the traps. The town got together and prayed for the red moss to disappear. God answered their prayers and this year, there is no red moss.

We retired after eating Bart’s home-cooked meal so that we could wake early to watch the sun rise over the marsh.

 

Friday, October 19

Back in Tangier, we interviewed 87 year-old Milton Parks who grew up in Tangier and was a waterman for 60 years. He believes that the land will “return to the sea”. His daughter, Inez is the island’s only doctor.

Milton Parks

Milton Parks

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We boarded the boat to go to Smith Island, stopping on the way to search for buried gravestones and artifacts in the Uppards.

Walking along the beach, we collected a few things but it was impossible to enter the marsh that was once Canaan.

Smith Island is a community spread across three inhabited locations - Rhodes Point (population 49), Ewell (population 120), and Tylerton (population 41).

Because of a combination of its low elevation and storm erosion, the island has been shrinking for centuries. In the last 150 years, Smith Island has lost over 3,300 acres of wetlands because of erosion and post-glacial subsidence into the Chesapeake.

 

Docking our boat in Tylerton, we walked to Mary Ada Marshall’s home to discuss her life on Smith Island.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Mary Ada is famous for the eight-layer Smith Island Cake, which became Maryland’s official dessert on April 24, 2008.

At 71 years old, she is the oldest person on the island. The youngest is 11. There are only 7 children in the school.


Mary Ada does not believe that Smith Island will exist in the future. The bulkhead in front of her home has prevented aggressive erosion, but flooding still occurs. All supplies come from the mainland by boat, but when they arrive, there is not enough manpower to deliver much of the freight. The only mode of transportation is by golf cart except for the lone fire truck. Everyone on the island pitches in to help one another. Life is difficult and most have moved to the mainland, including her children.

It was once possible to walk 6 miles from Tangier Island to Smith Island!

 

Bart brought us back to Crisfield where in order to board our helicopter to view the Chesapeake Islands from above. Flying over the Bay gave me a better idea of the severity of the eroding islands.

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As we flew above the area, we witnessed the homes that were clustered together at the highest elevation on Tangier Island. We discovered submerged ships, tractors and homes. We found the foundation of the last Holland Island home that had collapsed and while flying over Holland Island could detect what was once a town square and perhaps a church.

Landing on the Holland Island marsh, I approached several tombstones, read their inscriptions, most on the deaths occurring in the late 1800s. The deceased never realized that their descendants would never be able to visit their graves.

Now only tombstones remain from what was once a vibrant community. The tales of their lives would be passed down orally for generations and recorded in history books.

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To read about sea level rise is quite different than experiencing the effects of it from the viewpoint of those that live day-to-day with flooding and erosion.

What should these people do? Abandon the only lives that they have known and move?

According to Climate Central, under moderate sea-level-rise, an estimated 41,000 homes and more than $19.6 billion in property values face an increase in flooding during this century. Norfolk, VA floods 10 to 15 times per year. The question is no longer “if” sea level rises but ”how fast”.

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Diane Tuft
Part I - The Florida Keys: After Irma

Rising Tide: Sinking Earth

Global warming is creating havoc throughout the world.

Our oceans are warming and expanding causing an increase in hurricanes, tsunamis, tornados, flooding, and soil erosion.

This project, Rising Tide: Sinking Earth, focuses on locations throughout the world that are experiencing the effects of coastal soil erosion due to climate change.


The Florida Keys: After Irma

July 23 - 27, 2018


On September 10, 2017, one of the most powerful hurricanes in recorded history struck the Lower Florida Keys. Ten months later people are still displaced, debris still lines the canals and pollution is evasive. I travelled to the Keys to document what is happening there in hopes to illuminate these pervasive issues, their cause and effect. 

Hurricane Irma, a category 4 Hurricane, created 10-foot tide surges and 150-mile per hour winds. This caused major damage to buildings, mobile homes, boats, roads, electric supply, mobile phone coverage, Internet access, sanitation, and to the water and fuel supply throughout the one hundred mile-long chain of islands. Over 27,000 homes were damaged; gasoline was in short supply and the power out for weeks. 5.5 million people were required to evacuate.

Hurricane Harvey had just drained FEMA funds, creating a massive shortage. The Senate was only able to provide the Keys 10% of the funds that were given for Harvey.


As I toured the Keys I couldn’t believe the amount of sustained damage. Mobile homes, boats, cars, and refrigerators are still strewn throughout the canals. The water is incredibly polluted due to the amount of paint, round-up and turpentine still remaining under the water.

Brian Vest, the founder of the voluntary organization Conch Republic Marine Army (CRMA) arranged for me to talk to a few of the locals.

Kendall Klay

Kendall Klay

Captain Kendall Klay, who has lived in the Keys since he was three, navigated his flat bottom boat off Little Torch Key to reach the shores of some of the abandoned islands.

He was devastated that his favorite island, a bird sanctuary, had been shattered into several smaller islands after Irma.

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

Along the shoreline of another abandoned island I collected PVC pipe, shoes, plastic bottles, beer cans, metal sheeting, light bulbs and other items that I plan on using to create a sculpture from this debris.

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Kendall and his assistant snorkeled to cut and retrieve two of the many ropes attached to the more than 96,000 sunken lobster traps that remain on the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean.

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Kendall relayed his experience during and after Irma.

He had put all of his belongings in Texas while living in an apartment in the Keys. When Hurricane Harvey struck Texas, he lost these belongings only to find one week later that Irma was hitting the Keys. Leaving the day before the storm, he headed to Mississippi. Upon his return, he found all of his childhood memories had been wiped away and covered in garbage. The storm had blown in the windows and doors of his apartment. His sailboat was under an island and his sport fisher boat still has not been found. He could not access the water because of the debris. He tried cleaning the canals but was forced to stop because the water was ridden with disease, including meningitis.


Kendall now lives in a pop-up trailer. He expects more hurricanes will come to the Keys and believes that the community needs to get together to address this threat, like storing toxic materials on an upper floor so that they don’t wash out to sea.

 
Tom Ryan

Tom Ryan

Tom Ryan, running for County Commissioner, lives on Big Pine Key.

He was extremely frustrated with the slow response and lack of funding from FEMA. He showed us the 5-foot flood mark on his raised first floor, despite his home not being on the water.

Most of Tom’s valuables were destroyed or taken out to sea even though they were stored in a secure room. He now lives in a trailer on his property until his house is livable and is in the process of installing sheet rock and waiting for windows to replace the plywood-covered openings.

His roof is still covered with blue tarp. 

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 

John Teges, age 75, is a caretaker in the Keys since 1978. He cared for seven homes before Irma. He now cares for three.

John has been working non-stop since last September to restore one of the properties - a home he cares for that is now for sale, thus not required to be brought up to code.

Prior to the storm’s arrival, John’s cat did not retreat. This made him believe that Irma would be like past hurricanes, lasting a maximum of 2 hours, so he remained. Irma, however, lasted 19 hours.

When FEMA stopped paying for the pick-up of debris, John was able to make a living by collecting debris from several homes. He collects 25 cans every day. As he says, “The Universe Provides”.

John Teges

John Teges

While walking around his property I noticed a baby stroller, a sink, boxes and other items still tucked into the mangroves.

While walking around his property I noticed a baby stroller, a sink, boxes and other items still tucked into the mangroves.

The small guesthouse on the property remained untouched. Insulation was ripped from the walls and water-soaked furniture remained.

The small guesthouse on the property remained untouched. Insulation was ripped from the walls and water-soaked furniture remained.

 

On July 25, we went to Boca Chica Beach with Maggie Howes, one of the top volunteers with CRMA, to collect more debris. The mangroves were filled with tires, remnants of boats, high chairs, roofing, shingles, lighting, and the usual plastics and cans. We gathered as much as we could carry, loaded it all into our car and continued on to Geiger Key and Coppit Key to collect more. I had completely underestimated how much debris there would be to collect and ended up filling huge crates.

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Gina Valeri

Gina Valeri

Brian introduced me to Zoey Hernandez, an ex-manicurist who after Irma became a social service worker. The suicide rate was high and people were in dire need of support. 

Zoey arranged for me to meet Gina Valeri, a single mother, who raised 2 children and lives on the water in Big Pine Key for the past 23 years. She did not evacuate when Hurricane Irma hit. Hotels would not accept her without the necessary papers for her cat, which she did not have.

Gina hid in an upstairs room of her neighbor’s house listening to gale winds blow shingles against the sides of the house. It took her several days to have the courage to return to her home to inspect the damage. A Red Notice was on her front door, which meant that her house was deemed uninhabitable. After changing the “Red” to “Orange”, she could rebuild but only within today’s building codes. This would require extensive renovation and cost.

Upon entering her home, the mud was three feet deep, windows were missing, and furniture as well as the refrigerator and range had all flown out of the windows to be found week’s later 4 blocks away. Everything in the house was destroyed; black mold was everywhere.

They received some money for flood damage but have not received anything from wind insurance and are in a long legal battle against the insurance company.

Gina and her boyfriend are currently living in a trailer on their property until the kids come home. When the kids arrive they stay in the “Bubble Room” created from plastic drop cloths. 

Cinematography: Bill Megalos

 

My aerial photographs depict the beauty of the area. There are over 1700 islands in the Keys. 43 are connected by bridges.  Flying over over a patch of hot pink water was beautiful until I realized that the color was most likely caused by paint leaking into the water. 

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From the air I could view mobile homes, boats and cars still submerged in the canals.

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Laura has been travelling to the Keys to visit her grandparents since she was three. After deciding to live full-time in the Keys, she rented houses until she could find the perfect one to buy. Five months after finding her perfect home, Irma destroyed it.

One week after Laura evacuated, her neighbor inspected her home and told her to buy a camper because her home was uninhabitable.

When Laura did return, she was shocked to see the damage. Their boat was under the front door, the garage door was blown in and all of her valuables that had been placed in bags on top of the refrigerator were submerged under water.

Black mold covered everything; furniture, sheetrock and insulation had to be removed.

Lines were long in Marathon each day with people trying to retrieve building permits. After 10 months of living in a camper, Laura and her husband finally live in one room of their house. She tells us that her Key’s neighbors are “family now”.

Laura Talley

Laura Talley

 

It is difficult to contemplate the fact that these tragedies have been caused by extreme weather due to climate change.

There is a direct correlation between global warming and hurricanes. The development of storms like Hurricane Irma is not arbitrary.

As the temperature of the ocean rises, it expands – causing sea rise and coastal flooding. Moisture from the warm Atlantic Ocean evaporates and rises causing enormous amount of heated moist air to twist high in the atmosphere. This low vertical wind shear supercharges the storm leading to more frequent and severe hurricanes. 1

It is predicted that by 2100 the ocean will rise by 2 meters and the temperature will rise by 3 degrees C. At this rate Southern Florida will be under water and millions of people will need to relocate. 2

Through my art I hope to bring attention to the beauty of these areas and emphasize the magnitude of disaster that climate change is causing throughout the world.

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Remnants; New Found Harbor Key

 
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Salt Earth; Cotoe Key

 
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Drifting Borders; Toptree Hammock Key

 
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After Irma; Content Key


CITATIONS


1
PBS.ORG: First Harvey, now Irma. Why are so many hurricanes hitting the U.S.?
Sep 5, 2017
https://www.pbs.org/newshour/science/first-harvey-now-irma-many-hurricanes-hitting-u-s


Union of Concerned Scientists, Inc.: Hurricanes and Climate Change
December 1, 2017
https://www.ucsusa.org/global-warming/science-and-impacts/impacts/hurricanes-and-climate-change.html#.W31g7IopChA



2

Newsweek: How Long Before All of Florida Is Underwater?
November 3, 2017
https://www.newsweek.com/how-long-all-florida-underwater-700835

Diane Tuft